Boxy, Double-Breasted Tailoring
Slouchy summer tailoring is nothing new – we’re talking clothes here, lads, not reinventing the wheel – yet the SS19 collections that sashayed down the catwalk were truly taking the slouchy summer tailoring biscuit. The main shape was oversized and distinctly ‘80s with broad shoulder pads and a lengthy cut that hung just below the trouser pocket.
Paul Smith was the main instigator and firm proof that despite streetwear’s efforts to overtake the suit for good, you just can’t get around the fact that it is – and always will be – a bastion of menswear. Dunhill, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Maison Margiela continued to carry the torch, and out of the trend for relaxed tailoring was born a micro-trend – the double-breasted jacket – which came in all colours, patterns and fabrics and was even worn predominantly open at the Louis Vuitton and Giorgio Armani shows.
It is an easy trend to jump on, the large peak lapels adding a welcome dash of statement to any piece of tailoring, but you don’t have to go too bold and colourful with it if you don’t want to. Saint Laurent showcased a very sleek black with a preppy gold stripe take that proves that it doesn’t have to be all gaudy 1980s power tailoring when it comes to the double-breasted.
The wearable luggage trend seen through the SS19 collections isn’t brand spanking new, but it sees a continuation and development of the Cross Bag trend that has swept through streetwear in the last year. Louis Vuitton (at it again) littered its looks with chain embellished totes and handbags worn over the head, sat in plain sight right in front of the model.
Lanvin was also in on the trend showcasing some slick cross body messenger bags decked out in leather. Hermes, meanwhile, took the bum bag and slid it underneath tailored suit jackets and Junya Watanabe featured some form of wearable luggage with just about every one of its looks. The message is clear – functional baggage isn’t going away anytime soon and it’s pairing with formal looks might see the bum bag being taken off the street and into the office.